BEFORE YOU START, UNPLUG EVERYTHING FROM THE WALL!

1) Remove four screws that hold in the back.

2) Unplug the plastic connector to the speaker connector. DON”T YANK ON THIS! GENTLE! GENTLE! GENTLE! Also unscrew any clips that are holding down the power cord or other wires near the back of the amp.

3) Remove the two wires to the reverb pan on the bottom of the amp, marking them “left and “right”

4) Remove two screws from the reverb pan and slide it out of the cabinet.

5) Unplug the large inline white plastic wire connector with 8 or 9 wires. This lives under the rotary power switch. Do this with the greatest of care so yo9u don't break the contact wafer on the power switch. The power switch is not replaceable, so if you break it, you can't repair or replace it.

The photo at left shows the chassis already removed from the cabinet for clarity.

6) Remove two 11/32” nuts that hold in the control section to the inside top of the amp cabinet. You need an 11/32” socket wrench with an 9” extension to do this. Access this through the 1" holes in the bottom of the amp head cabinet.

7) Remove two philips head screws that also hold the control section to the inside top of the cabinet. They are to the rear of the 11/32” nuts, and sometimes missing.

8) Slide out the control chassis….but as you are doing this…

9) Unplug the RCA connector on the side of the control chassis, and…

10) Also unplug the white plastic connector that runs to the tuner assembly, if your amp has the E or G tuner accessory. The tuner is actually a little circuit that is screwed to the left front inside of the cabinet.

11) Unscrew four long 10/32 screws on the bottom of the amp that hold in the power section (the device with the cooling fins. Slide this out of the cabinet.